Mekong River's ecology and its influence on livelihoods

Most small riverside communities along the Mekong River rely on mixed economy of agricultur and fisheries. These two subsistence activities dominate the  live along the river; and are directly linked to the Mekong's ecology.

Families and livelihoods along the river depend on the river and its resources. Families need the income and food generated through activities such as fisheries and gardening. For most people in the Mekong basin, livelihoods are complex, and often include a mixture of employment income, as well as subsistence farming or fishing activities such as growing food or fishing.

The activities undertaken by households vary seasonally. The Mekong River ecology, and in particular the seasonal flood-pulse and the dry season, determines how these activities vary throughout the year. At times rice-farming dominates the activities, while at other times, fishing is more important.

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Nong Khai's Naga - a strong symbol and deity of the Mekong River

Guardian deity of the Mekong River and its people. Rooted in many legends and stories from the past, the Naga is still one of the most important symbols of the Lao and Isaan culture.

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Ceremony to mark progress on 4th Thai-Lao Friendship bridge

4th Mekong River bridge between Laos and Thailand - Ceremony marks bridge progress : http://tinyurl.com/akj5dce

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Controversial dam project in Laos

Laos has approved a controversial dam project to dam the Mekong River near Xayaburi - even though the project has been widely criticized by environmentalists, neighboring countries, especially Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam who fear that the dam will negatively affect downstream riverside communities and their livelihoods.

Laos project is the first one to dam the lower Mekong River. China put already 4 dams in place in the upper Mekong River area.

There are 10 more dams planned so far on the lower Mekong River basin. The Mekong River is Southeast Asia's longest river and a rich source of fish, a cultural inspiration, way of transportation and source of life.

My own blog entries on the Mekong River:
Nong Khai's aquarium - a closup look at the Mekong River fish
Going Upriver and Back in Time in Laos
Mekong Sunset... in Pak Khat
Khonephapheng waterfall in Southern Laos Sipandone area
Lush river life... some impressions...
Mekong Sunset... Luang Prabang
Mekong River bank erosion in Vientiane
Sunrise over the Mekong
Naga Fireballs in Laos and Isaan along the Mekong...
Mekong "Mae Nam Khong" - the Mother Khong

Article on Bangkok Post from 06/11/2012

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Bueng Kan connected - 5th Mekong bridge planned

Bung Kan will get connected to Laos Bolikhamsay province through a 1.5 kilometre, 1.5 billion baht Friendship bridge..

According to Bung Kan's Governor Pornsak Jearanai, should the construction of the bridge begin within the next three years. "The Thai cabinet has approved the project and the governments of both countries have agreed in principle to have the fifth bridge built."

The 5th Friendship bridge will be built about 12 km east of the center of Buneg Kan and will link the province with the capital of Bolikhamxay Paksan.

It is expected, that once the bridge is open trade will increase between the two countries from the present 5.4 billon baht to some 24 billion baht. This would be a similar level as the trade volume of the 1st Thai - Lao Friendship bridge in Nong Khai and Vientiane.

The Bung Kan Friendship bridge will shorten the traveling distance from Thailand to Vietnam considerably, thus also boost cross border, holiday and business traffic between the three countries: Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.

This will allow Bung Kan to become a bridge head into Indochina and Chine.

Other Friendship bridges are:

• 1st Thai - Lao Friendship bridge: Nong Khai (TH) - Vientiane (LAO), 1'170m (0.73 mi) long, the bridge has two lanes, two footpaths and a single 1,000 mm (3 ft 3 ³⁄₈ in) gauge railway line in the middle of the bridge.
   
• 2nd  Thai - Lao Friendship bridge: Mukdahan (TH) - Savannakhet (LAO), 1'600 meters (1.0 mi) long and 12 meters (39 ft) wide, with two traffic lanes.
  
• 3rd Thai - Lao Friendship bridge: Nakhon Phanom (TH) - Thakhek (LAO), 1'423 m long and 13 m wide.
  
• 4th Thai - Lao Friendship bridge: Chiang Khong (TH) - Houay Xay (LAO), proposed bridge...

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Bueng Kan - 77. and newest province of Thailand - my home province

Bueng Kan (Thai: บึงกาฬ) is the 77th province of the Kingdom of Thailand, established last year 2554 (2011) on and from March 23, 2011. The province of Bueng Kan, consisting of the districts partitioned off from Nong Khai Province, is situated along the Mekong River in the northeastern region of the country, called Isaan. The province is named after its central district, Mueang Bueng Kan.


The province is subdivided into 8 districts (Amphoe). The districts are further subdivided into 54 subdistricts (tambon) and 599 villages (muban).

The districts are:

• Mueang Bueng Kan
• Phon Charoen
• So Phisai
• Seka
• Pak Khat
• Bueng Khong Long
• Si Wilai
• Bung Khla

Tourist attractions include:

• Bueng Khong Long Lake - Isaan's little sea...
• Wat Phu Tok - "Isaan's Stairway to Heaven"
• Mekong Sunset... in Pak Khat

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Daeng Namnueng - best Vietnamese kitchen in Nong Khai

In my opinion still the best Vietnamese restaurant in Nong Khai - Deang Namnueng. The restaurant offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine. The menu features many different dishes, ranging from Vietnamese fresh and fried spring rolls, sausages, grilled dishes, noodles and rice dishes.

The restaurant is located directly on the Mekong River banks. While enjoy the lovely food, overlooking the Mekong River, you can glimpse into Laos. A truly multicultural experince.

Address: 526-527 Moo 4, Rim Khong Rd., Nai Mueang, Muang Nong Khai, Nong Khai 43000 Thailand

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Nong Khai's aquarium - a closup look at the Mekong River fish

The biggest aquarium in Northeastearn Thailand is located located at Khon Kaen University’s Campus in Nong Khai.

The University campus is a satellite campus of Khon Kaen University, located on the bypass road to Vientiane. If you come from Udon Thani take a left turn just before you enter Nong Khai and follow the signs "Vientiane". After few kilometers another sign board will direct you to the campus and the aquarium.

The construction of the aquarium began in 2004 in collaboration of Nong Khai Province and the University.

The idea of the aquarium is to conserve freshwater fish in the Mekong River as well as to stimulate tourism in the province - conserving Mekong's freshwater fish has become recently more urgent as Laos proceeds with the construction of its vastly critisized Xayabouri dam project.

There is a small saltwater fish selection on display, which in my opinion is not that special. However, considering the remote location from the next sea it is ok.

Indeed spectacular are the many freshwater fish species and their habitats as they could be found in the Mekong River. The displayed tanks vary in sizes and shapes. A highlight is the 25 meter tunnel tank featuring all kind of large Mekong River fish.

As a diver, I felt instantly in love with the atmosphere and the amazing blue World.

A great day excursion just a few kilometers out of down town Nong Khai...

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Tha Sadej - Royal Embarkation to the Mekong River

Market places and boat landings along the Mekong River have a long tradition, as they allow for commerce and easy exchange of goods between the Mekong bordering countries and provinces. So does the one in the middle of Nong Khai town: "Tha Daan". Tha Daan was the name long known by locals for Nong Khai's riverside market and boat pier. Tha Daan was also the old border check point for immigration and customs, where travelers, traders and visitor could cross the Mekong River between Thailand and Laos. There was a regular ferry service.

In 1968, Their Majesties the King and Queen arrived from Bangkok and visited Nong Khai town to preside over a ceremony for the construction of the Nam Ngum dam and the resulting power supply from Lao PDR to Thailand.

Their Majesties the King and the Queen used the boat landing in Nong Khai's Muang district, to embark on a ferry to cruise on the river to reach the raft pavilion moored in the middle of the Mekong. Since then, local people have referred to the Tha Daan jetty as "Tha Sadej" (Thai: “sadej” means "go", but it is the verb form used only for the Their Majesties the King and the Queen).

Nowadays, the international border check point for immigration and customs has been moved from Tha Sadej to the 5 kilometers further upriver located Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. Tourists wishing to visit Laos are obliged to use the Friendship bridge check point only.
However, Tha Sadej still serves as a convenient area for local merchants and traders to cross between Thailand and Laos. The market known as Tha Sadej is also known as Tha Sadej Indochina market, where duty & tax - free goods from China, Vietnam and Laos can be found. The products on sell include electrical goods, chinaware, ceramics, silk and cotton. Fabrics and food delicacies from Nong Khai province can be found too.

The rich selection and variety of available products at Tha Sadej Indochina market make it a famous and popular shopping area for tourists and locals visiting Nong Khai town.

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Thai - Lao Friendship Bridge - Lao's lifeline to the World

The First Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge (Thai: สะพานมิตรภาพ ไทย-ลาว แห่งที่ 1, Lao: ຂົວມິດຕະພາບ ລາວ-ໄທ ແຫ່ງທຳອິດ, is connecting Nong Khai in Thailand with Vientiane in Laos. The bridge over the Mekong River has a length of 1'170 meters. The bridge has two road lanes each 3.5 meters wide, two 1.5 meters wide footpaths and a single meter gauge railway line in the middle. The railway line was the latest addition in 2009 and connects Thanaleang station in Laos with the Royal Thai Northeastern Railways network.

In November 2010 plans to extend the service from Thanalaeng to Vientiane were abandoned. A new high-speed rail link from China to Thailand through Laos would make the extension redundant.

The Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge was first opened on April 8, 1994. The bridge was the first of four bridges over the Mekong River and connecting Laos and Thailand.
The Second bridge is connecting Mukdahan with the Lao town of Savannkhet, while the third one will connect the Thai city of Nakhon Phanom with Thakhek in Laos upon completion. The fourth bridge is in planning stage and will connect Ban Hoei Xai with Chiang Khong in Thailand's Chiang Rai province.

The whole construction costs for the first Friendship Bridge was about US$30 million and funded by the Australian government.

The traffic on the bridge drives on the left hand side as in Thailand. However traffic in Laos drives on the right. Therefore a traffic change over is needed on the Lao end.

A regular shuttle bus service operates across the bridge, between the Lao and Thai border posts. A ticket costs 15 Thai Bath or 4'000 Kip.

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Khiri Announces New Day Trip Activities in Luang Prabang

November 10, 2010 By Khiri News

Khiri Travel Laos, in cooperation with Tiger Trails, is launching new a range of trekking, kayaking, mountain biking and cooking options starting and finishing in Luang Prabang. The activities are suitable for active travelers with limited time who want to get away from the usual sites and enjoy a memorable Northern Laos experience. The new Khiri Travel Laos options work on fixed departure days with guaranteed starts for groups of two or more people.

The day trek near Luang Prabang shows that even within one day you can walk to places that seem further out of town. Visit Hmong and Khmu tribes as you hike amid amazing mountain landscapes.

Kayaking on the calm Nam Khan river is suitable for beginners but delivers a superlative close-to-nature experience. Paddlers stop in nearby villages, get ethnic village insights, visit the Elephant Village, the grave of a French explorer, the Tad Sae waterfall (in season) and keep their energy levels up with a very tasty barbecue lunch along the way.

The bicycle daytrip option opens up 30km of scenic road and dirt track in and around Luang Prabang. The biking, which is suitable for beginners, includes a trip to the Elephant Village, insights into ethnic village life, and plenty away-from-it-all big country vistas.

Khiri Travel Laos will also show you how to cook Laotian cuisine, which relies heavily on the freshest products. The end result is a range of flavors and textures, many of them different from what westerners are used to. The culinary experience starts with an early morning tour of Luang Prabang’s major food market where we buy our cooking ingredients for the day. At a charming riverside location you then prepare and cook an assortment of dishes under supervision. You then enjoy the outcome of your cooking in a pleasant garden setting. Lao cuisine recipes are provided for all budding chefs to take home.

Marc Albert, Country Manager of Khiri Laos, says: “There is so much to see and do in Luang Prabang that you can base yourself there for a week. You can then choose a range of soft adventure, nature and cultural experiences that will take your appreciation of the Luang Prabang area to a new level.”

For further information, visit Khiri Travel Laos.

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Chao Anouvong - Laos' last king

Chao Anouvong or by most Lao people called Chao Anou (1767-1829) was the last king of the former Lao kingdom of Lan Xang. Chao Anouvong was ruling from 1805 to 1828 in Vientiane. He came to power after his brother's death.

Chao Anouvong had long been an ally of the Thai monarchs against the Burmese invaders. Unfortunately his accomplishments and support of the Thai kingdom was not well recognized by them. From 1826 to 1828 Chao Anouvong rebelled against Siam in an attempt to become once again independent from Siam.

Chao Anouvong initially captured the Thai stronghold of Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima) with his army. He assumed, that the local Lao people will follow and support him in his attempt to liberate the mostly of Lao people inhabited Isaan provinces of Thailand. The support however was not as expected and Chao Anouvong had to withdraw his forces. Lady Mo, the deputy governor’s wife, is known for harassing the Lao invaders while they were withdrawing.
Finally Chao Anouvong's army was defeated in a three-day fight near Vientiane. The Siamese King Rama III ordered his troops to sack and occupy Vientiane.

Chao Anouvong managed to escape and tried to return with Vietnamese help. Chao Anouvong was again defeated by the Siamese troops and also captured. The Siamese King Rama III ordered Vientiane destroyed. Only one temple, Wat Sisaket, survived. The precious Buddha statues “Phra Bang” and “Phra Keo” were taken to Bangkok. Chao Anouvong died as prisoner in Bangkok.

Vientiane these days opened a new park and monument on the Mekong River to celebrate the 450 years anniversary of being Laos’ capital and to honor Chao Anouvong. Interesting to be mentioned, that the statue of Chao Anouvong turns its back towards Laos and eyes once again over the Mekong River into Thailand, where more than 20 million former Lao, nowadays Thais, are living in Thailand’s Northeastern Isaan provinces!

It seems to me that King Chao Anouvong better would have a closer look at Laos and its people once in a while…

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Going Upriver and Back in Time in Laos

October 11, 2010 By Khiri Insider
VOLUME 3 - OCTOBER 12, 2010

Great river escapes still exist. Mekong River Cruises & Mekong Islands Tours, a Lao-German company, launched the first Laotian cabin river cruiser on the upper Mekong in 2006. Today, Mekong River Cruises operates three boutique river cruise vessels and is the leading cruise company in Laos.

By cruising the Mekong River you can discover some of the remotest parts of Laos, and indeed Southeast Asia. There are insights into villages of Lao and minority people, many without electricity, road access or telephone connections. From the boat itself, and on several land excursions led by the crew, the ever changing scenery of lush green mountains, amazing rock formations and peaceful villages along the river banks acts as a perfect antidote to big city pretensions.

Mekong River Cruises has launched an eight-day cruise from Luang Prabang to Chiang Saen on the Thailand border.

This amazing cruise starts in Luang Prabang, the charming former French colonial town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and probably one of the most beautiful towns in Southeast Asia. The cruise winds its way through the Laotian countryside on the Mekong, passing the sacred Pac Ou caves, the small town of Pak Beng and many small minority villages until it reaches Hoay Xay in Bokeo province. It then proceeds further west up the river to the Thai town of Chiang Saen, its final destination in the Golden Triangle, a border region between Thailand, Myanmar and Laos.

This eight-day cruise on the upper Mekong River is an extraordinary experience traveling on the most comfortable river vessel available in Laos.

Khiri Laos country manager, Marc Albert, took the trip and concluded: “Exploring the Mekong River on Mekong Explorer is an unique way of traveling through Northern Laos. Although I have visited quite a few remote places in Laos, I was deeply impressed by the insights on riverside communities along the Mekong River.”

He adds: “With no modern communication tools, electricity or overland road access, these communities along the Mekong River live their traditional lives pretty much as they did 100 or more years ago. The Mekong Explorer allows you to discover these remote areas and people in a unique and very comfortable way. The slower pace of river travel lets one relax and enjoy the beauty of Mother Nature. It is a lost paradise only accessible by boat.”

Khiri Travel can arrange such cruises as well as pre- and post cruise extensions throughout Laos, Indochina and Thailand. Visit www.khirilaos.com.

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Mekong Sunset... in Pak Khat

Pak Khat (Thai: ปากคาด) is a small district (amphoe) bordering the Mekong River in the eastern part of Nong Khai Province, northeastern Thailand, aka Isaan. The king amphoe or minor district was established on October 1 1978, when it was split off from Phon Phisai district.

Neighboring districts are Bueng Kan, So Phisai, and Rattanawapi - all in Nong Khai Province. On the opposite Mekong river banks is the Laotian province of Bolikhamxai.

Pak Khat is a small but vivid town, nestled along the Mekong river. Sunsets can be amazing as you can see from below pictures.

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Khonephapheng waterfall in Southern Laos Sipandone area

The Khonephapheng waterfall (Lao: ຂກົກນເກະ ຜກະ ຜເກະງ) is located on the Laotian part of the Mekong River in the Southernmost province of Lao PDR - Champassak.

The Khonephapheng waterfall are closed to the border of Cambodia.

The Khonephapheng waterfall is the main reason, why the Mekong river is not navigable into Thailand, Burma and China.
The French colonialists made in the late 19th century several efforts to make the falls navigable but all failed.
The only successful attempt by the French was made possible by building two ports, one in the South of Khone Island (below the falls) and one in the Eastern shore of Det island (above the falls), linking the two islands with a bridge and connecting the two ports with a small railway. By doing so, the French were able to circumvent the steepest rapids and allow trans-Mekong-shipment.

The total height of the Khonephapheng falls is 21 meters in several cascades stretching over 10 kilometers of the Mekong river's length. The average discharge of the cataract is nearly 11,000 cubic meters per second, making the Khonephapheng falls the largest waterfall in terms of volume in Southeast Asia.

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Wat Phra That Bang Phuan

Wat Phra That Bang Phuan in Nong Khai's Ban Don Mu 'village', Phra That Bang Phuan district is one of the region’s most a beautiful Indian-style stupa and one of the most sacred sites within the province.

It is believed, that some of Lord Buddha’s bones are buried here.
Therefore the place is much respected and worshiped by residents and visitors alike.

Although no one really knows, when the first chedi of Phra That Bang Phuan was built, it is assumed, that it is of the same age as the chedi in Phra Phathom, as it is similar in construction (built with bricks) and style.

In 1559 King Sayaxettha of Chanthaburi (Viang Chan – aka Vientiane, Laos) extended his capital across the Mekong river and built a taller Lao-style chedi over the original as a demonstration of faith.

The nearby Naga pond or 'Sa Phaya Nak' was used in the past to bath the new rulers as an auspicious gesture.

However, heavy rain caused the chedi in 1970 to collapse. Thailand's Fine Arts Department restored the structure in 1976 and 1977.

The current chedi stands 34.25m high and has several older chedis around it. The lower base of the chedi is 17.2 m wide and consists of five tiers.

This special setting gives the temple of Phra That Bang Phuan an ancient and sacred atmosphere.

Wat Phra That Bang Phuan is 23 km outside Nong Khai direction to Tha Bo.

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Lush river life... some impressions...

Ferry crossing the Mekong River in Ban Houay Xay, Bokeo Province, Northern Laos.

Boys playing football on the banks of the Nam Ou in Ban Soph Van, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Ban Nong Khiow at the Nam Ou, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Fisherman checking his net on Nam Khan, near Luang Prabang, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Training for the boat racing festival?, Nam Khan, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Children enjoying the 2008 flood at Nam Khan Riverside, Luang Prabang town, Laos.

Girl watching the 2008 flooding in Luang Prabang town, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Boats in Luang Prabang, Laos.

Boat racing festivals are held in Cambodia, Laos and Thailand during the months of September and October.

Flooting restaurant in Pakse on the Sedone River, Champasak Province, Southern Laos.

Boat landing to cross the Mekong river, opposite Ban Champasak (near UNESCO World Heritage site of Vat Phou), Champasak Province, Southern Laos.

Sunset over the Mekong, Khong Island, Sipandone area, Champasak Province, Southern Laos.

Abundant fish life, market on Khong Island, Champasak Province, Southern Laos.

Fisherman fixing his traps, Preah Rumkel community, Stung Treng Province, Cambodia.

Ferry boat in Stung Treng town, Stung Treng Province, Cambodia.

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