Nong Khai's Naga - a strong symbol and deity of the Mekong River

Guardian deity of the Mekong River and its people. Rooted in many legends and stories from the past, the Naga is still one of the most important symbols of the Lao and Isaan culture.

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Controversial dam project in Laos

Laos has approved a controversial dam project to dam the Mekong River near Xayaburi - even though the project has been widely criticized by environmentalists, neighboring countries, especially Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam who fear that the dam will negatively affect downstream riverside communities and their livelihoods.

Laos project is the first one to dam the lower Mekong River. China put already 4 dams in place in the upper Mekong River area.

There are 10 more dams planned so far on the lower Mekong River basin. The Mekong River is Southeast Asia's longest river and a rich source of fish, a cultural inspiration, way of transportation and source of life.

My own blog entries on the Mekong River:
Nong Khai's aquarium - a closup look at the Mekong River fish
Going Upriver and Back in Time in Laos
Mekong Sunset... in Pak Khat
Khonephapheng waterfall in Southern Laos Sipandone area
Lush river life... some impressions...
Mekong Sunset... Luang Prabang
Mekong River bank erosion in Vientiane
Sunrise over the Mekong
Naga Fireballs in Laos and Isaan along the Mekong...
Mekong "Mae Nam Khong" - the Mother Khong

Article on Bangkok Post from 06/11/2012

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Wat Phra That Bang Phuan

Wat Phra That Bang Phuan in Nong Khai's Ban Don Mu 'village', Phra That Bang Phuan district is one of the region’s most a beautiful Indian-style stupa and one of the most sacred sites within the province.

It is believed, that some of Lord Buddha’s bones are buried here.
Therefore the place is much respected and worshiped by residents and visitors alike.

Although no one really knows, when the first chedi of Phra That Bang Phuan was built, it is assumed, that it is of the same age as the chedi in Phra Phathom, as it is similar in construction (built with bricks) and style.

In 1559 King Sayaxettha of Chanthaburi (Viang Chan – aka Vientiane, Laos) extended his capital across the Mekong river and built a taller Lao-style chedi over the original as a demonstration of faith.

The nearby Naga pond or 'Sa Phaya Nak' was used in the past to bath the new rulers as an auspicious gesture.

However, heavy rain caused the chedi in 1970 to collapse. Thailand's Fine Arts Department restored the structure in 1976 and 1977.

The current chedi stands 34.25m high and has several older chedis around it. The lower base of the chedi is 17.2 m wide and consists of five tiers.

This special setting gives the temple of Phra That Bang Phuan an ancient and sacred atmosphere.

Wat Phra That Bang Phuan is 23 km outside Nong Khai direction to Tha Bo.

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Wat Kham Chanot - abode of naga lord Sisotho

Wat Kham Chanot (Thai: วัดคำชะโนด) is a Buddhist forest temple near Kham Chanot village in Udon Thani province, Northeastern Thailand (Isaan).

The temple is located in the Wang Nakhin area at a lake where the naga lord Sisotho, a mythical large snake, is supposed to be living.

The worship of this naga lord is one of the main issue in this small forest monastery.

Around eight to ten monks live here on a permanent base.

Locals (Isaan and Lao people) believe that the naga lord has a hideaway on the island.
It is connected to the other Wat premises by a bridge.

The entrance of the bridge is guarded by two large nagas. The shrine of the Wat is located on the island.

A small zoo as well as a rural market for visitors has been added to the temple.

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Interesting places in Vientiane: Nam Pasak Spirit House

Nam Pasak Spirit House of the guardian naga lord Inthachakkhunag, one of the nine guardian naga of Vientiane.

During the French colonization the shrine was owned and cared for by the Vietnamese community,

In 2000 the spirit house reverted back to Lao custodianship.

The shrine houses deities of several different religions and is located at the western end of Vientiane's Mekong riverside.

Usually the small shrine is closed. Best chance to get a glimpse of the interior of the spirit house is in the morning when offerings are made and the shrine is cleaned.

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Naga Fireballs in Laos and Isaan along the Mekong...

On the last night of the Buddhist Lent, Naga fireballs (Thai: บั้งไฟพญานาค, bangfai payanak) appearing from the Mekong River's surface, can be seen once a year in Laos and Nong Khai province in Thailand. These glowing fireballs appear from the depth of the River...

The origin of this phenomenon is not clear. Some scientists have proposed that the fireballs are a product of the fermentation of river sediments, which can combust in the Mekong river under certain atmospheric conditions.

A Thai television channel once suggested that tracer fires originating from drunken Lao soldiers are the true cause of this spectacle. Furious protests from local villagers have been the answer. They believe that the
Naga fireballs are produced by a snake-like Guardian spirits of the Mekong River - the Naga or Phaya Naga. These spirits have been living in Laos and Isaans Rivers ever since. This local belief was also supported by a popular Thai newspaper.

However, on the Lao side of the Mekong River, the Naga fireballs can be spotted where Nam Ngum and Mekong River join in Thaprabath District, Bolikhamxay Province, as well as in Pak Ngum District, 60 km east of
Vientiane capital.

In Thailand Isaan region, Phon Pisai in Nong Khai seems to be the most famous and maybe the best place to observe this yearly spectacle on the Mekong River. One has to be early in order to get a good place as this

spectacle is very popular amongst the Lao and the Lao speaking Isaan people.

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Sala Keo Ku - a step forward from Wat Xieng Khuan

Sala Keo Ku is a sculpture park near Nong Khai featuring a fantastic amount of concrete Buddha, Hindu and other statues. The park is in close proximity to the Thai-Lao border.

Sala Keo Ku as well as a similar sculpture park in Laos - Wat Xieng Khuan - have been designed and built by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat. Wat Xieng Khuan was constructed earlier than Sala Keo Ku, before the revolution through the Pathet Lao in 1975. The revered monk left Laos and built Sala Keo Ku on the Thai side in 1978.

Sala Kao Ku shares therefore the style and fantasy of Sulilat's earlier creation, but it contains even more figures and they are also more extravagant and greater in their design and proportions.

Some of the status rise as high as 25m into the sky. One of those immense sculptures is a monumental depiction Buddha, meditating and protected under a seven-headed Naga. This subject is very common in Buddhist art and can be found throughout all Buddhist countries in various forms and sizes...

The Wat of Sala Keo Ku is a mosque like three-story concrete building, sourounded by snailhouse shaped pilers. The building contains Sulitat's mummified body.

A great place to visit 5 km outside of Nong Khai city. I personally prefer Sala Keo Ku as it is better maintained and also more interesting than Wat Xieng Khuan in Laos...

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